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THE FORAGER
chef tested hard to find and unusual products

TOQUE OF NEW YORK / BOSTON
By Linda Kavanaugh


Impressed by a First visit - elated with the Second
Anticipating the Next!

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For Caption

 

Arezzo
Chef Margherita Aloi (not to be confused with Aoli) shares her love of food and wine with others at her newly opened Arezzo. Her culinary prowess began with her family's cheese and wine business in Tucci, Italy.

Professionally trained at the Culinary Institute at Barolo Castle in the center of the DOGC wine region of Barolo and Barbaresco, Margherita came to the states in 1989 to create fresh pasta for Pino Luongo's Le Madri. Making New York her home, she continued to work with Pino, developing the retail market at Mad 61, as Market Chef for Tuscan Square, and a return visit to Le Le Madri as Executive Chef in 1998. In August of 2001, Gotham Comedy Club owners, Christopher Mazzilli and Michael Reisman, enticed Margherita into creating/co-owning Arezzo. Modern regional cuisine is infused with old world flavors - straightforward cuisine that has been blessed with a knowledgeable touch. Stand-outs include: Cartoccio "Mare & Terra," lightly fried calamari, scallops, zucchini, and Tuscan fries with a spicy yellow tomato sauce; risotto of the day, perfect to split for a second course, is light and creamy, touched with aromatics such as lemon zest or saffron; wood oven roasted fish, chicken and pizzas; and a Grilled Norwegian salmon with mashed potatoes, plum chutney and caramelized pearl onions. A mostly Italian wine list is user-friendly, listing by varietals and intensities. Arezzo's sophisticated narrow interior boasts clean sharp lines, soothing colors, and a convivial bar area.

Arezzo
46 West 22nd Street, New York, NY
212 206.0555

 

The Gallery
The newly renovated SoHo Grand Hotel, known for their plushy Grand Bar & Lounge, has recently added The Gallery, a hip new restaurant, to their trendy parlor floor gathering space. Designer William Sofield, also responsible for the design of the bar and lounge, has created a dining room in keeping with the space's sleek and sexy interior, soft lighting, and modern fixtures. Executive Chef John Delucie, formerly of Arizona 206 and Oceana, has elaborated on the lounge's small plate offerings, and taken a few more liberties with The Gallery menu. Small dishes include wood grilled calamari, tuna sashimi finger sandwiches with wasabi essence, lamb and beef kabobs with raita, and watercress and Jerusalem artichoke salad with black truffle vinaigrette. Entrees such as pan roasted wild stripe bass with bok choy and oxtail, braised boneless osso bucoo with saffron and Yukon gold mashed potatoes, and mezza rigatoni with wild boar sausage and pava beans, are among the most popular dishes. The space beckons for designer martinis such as the Ten Commandments (Tanqueray Ten and blue cheese stuffed olives) and the Sky High (Red Bull and Sky Vodka) before or after dinner - as does the relaxing atmosphere.

The Gallery
310 West Broadway, New York, NY
121 965-3000

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Taja
Restaurateur Taja Abitol and her father/chef Kiki Abitol bring Tunisian and Moroccan style, flavor, and music to life in their 80-seat upper eastside restaurant, Taja. Growing up in her family's New York and Paris based eateries, Taja has created a contemporary, yet authentic (is that possible?) North African experience in Manhattan. A techno vibe with intoxicating vocals fills the space while diners indulge in the ancient hookah water pipe, laced with brandied water and various fig, apple and mint leaves, and delight in the belly dancers making their way through the darkly lit dining room. Menu highlights are the crab cakes, Moroccan lamb spring rolls and the Tunisian spicy sausage. Tripe, (yes, tripe!) is served in a fragrant broth-unexpectedly delicious. The seafood Tajine casts a spell with shrimp, salmon, and baby clams served over an intensely reduced fish stock couscous. Rack of lamb and wild mushroom ravioli are house favorites. While North African wines are offered, spicy Spanish and French wines dominate the list. If you're in the moot for an exotic night out Taja can fulfill your every whim.

Taja
1425 Second Avenue at 74th Street, New York, NY
212 734-9940

 

 

 

Sandrine's Bistro
No longer Greater Boston's best-kept secret, Sandrine's covert operation is out of the bag. Situated in the heart of Harvard Square, this attractive French bistro serves hearty Alsatian fare, combining Chef Raymond Ost's French traditionalism with his culinary imagination. Co-owner Gwen Trost, who's front of the house experience stems from years of hotel catering and management, compliments Chef Ost's cuisine with warmth and knowledge. She also supplies Chef Ost's kitchen with homegrown vegetables and herbs from her front yard garden. "A true labor of love, " says Gwen, "Chef is accustomed to using local, fresh ingredients. This is a part of what we're all about." Lettuce, beets, heirloom tomatoes, scallions, even quince and kiwis are picked and served in the same day. Also known for their homemade choucroute, otherwise known as sauerkraut, served with various meats and seafood, this peasant food takes on a whole new meaning at Sandrine's. The flammekueche, a thick yeast crust that is irregularly shaped and cooked in a wood burning oven is served with various toppings such as fromage blanc, smoked bacon, wild mushrooms, asparagus and prosciutto, and with fresh fruit as a dessert. Look for rare wines from Burgundy and Alsace on their extensive wine list to compliment the cuisine.

Sandrine's Bistro
8 Holyoke, Street, Cambridge, MA
617 497-5300

 

KingFish Hall
An exciting dining concept from restaurateur Todd English and designer David Rockwell, is one of several more upscale restaurants lending itself to the revitalization of Boston's historic Faneuil Hall. KingFish is as appealing as it's famous address. This two-story fish house hits its stride with a large serpentine-shaped bar/raw bar that entices with icy shellfish displays and steam kettles that produce appetizers such as jumbo Maine crab claws with avocado dipping sauce, lobster ceviche, fresh sushi, and garlicky herbed steamers. The vertical grill, nicknamed "fish dancer:' is another focal point of the dining room. Whole fish and filets are spicket-roasted over a wood-burning grill.

Miso cod steak, pan seared skate wing, and a traditional New England lobster boil are popular among tourists, as well as the locals. [Of course] Todd can't be seen at the helm, but a talented Chef de Cuisine, David Kinkead oversees this massive operation, working with 2 kitchens, one on each level, as well as the local fisherman, ensuring the freshest of seafood possible. The atmosphere at KingFish is high energy. The bustling kitchen noises, teamed with jazzy background music and chatty patrons, bounces off the exposed brick walls and oak wood floor and furnishings, just adding to the allure of this seafood gem.


KingFish Hall
Faneuil Hall South Market Place, Boston,
617 523-8862

 

Sel de la Terre
French for "Salt of the Earth" Sel de la Terre, at Long Wharf in Boston, celebrates the simplicity, warmth, and tradition of Provence. Frank McClelland, chef and owner of the famed L'Espalier restaurant in Back Bay, has partnered with his former sous chef Geoff Gardner, to create a Provencal style bistro and boulangerie. Upon entering, one is forced to make their way passed the boulangerie s signature breads, charcuterie, fromages, teas, coffees, and finger pastries. If you can make it by there, the dining room welcomes you with its flagstone floor, cherry wood furnishings, wrought iron lighting fixtures, and large picture windows with views of the downtown cityscape.After settling into the dining room, a popular start to the meal ahead are the various bread complements such as the first cold-press extra virgin olive, roasted shallots and garlic confit, and imported French olives and cheeses. Lighter fare and first courses include a classic Nicoise salad, chopped salad with smoked salmon and horseradish creme fraiche vinaigrette, and an outrageously decadent caramelized onion, spinach, and smoked bacon tart. Chef Gardner's classic French cooking techniques are evident in the mustard and garlic crusted leg of lamb with mushroom popover and mint pea puree, and the foie gras crusted pork loin with spaetzle, olives and a Black Mission fig jus. Those pastries that were initially passed on the way in somehow seem to make their way onto the table for dessert. Good thing.

Sel de la Terre
255 State Street at Long Wharf Boston,
617 227-1579

 

 

 

Linda Pernice Kavanagh
MaxEx Public Relations, LLC

102 Alton Road
Stamford, CT 06906
P 203.323.4185 F 4183

linda@maxexposure.net

Other Writer's Related Links:
Food is Love

Toque New York/ Boston Spring 2005

It's a Matter of Tasting...

In the Mood for Exceptional Contemporary French Cuisine
without all the Pomp and Circumstance?

Toque New York/Boston Summer 2002

Writer Linda Kavanagh - Profile

 


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